adraba

At Adraba, chef Elior Benaroche presents a deeply personal interpretation of Levantine cuisine, drawing directly from his roots in Jerusalem's old city. The menu reads like a culinary map of the Eastern Mediterranean, showcasing dishes that have been passed down through generations while incorporating the chef's refined technique and commitment to quality ingredients. Benaroche's previous experience at Balagan prepared him well for this solo venture, where he exercises complete creative control over a cuisine close to his heart.

The cooking at Adraba revolves around the fundamental building blocks of Levantine cuisine: fresh herbs, complex spice blends, and traditional preparation methods that coax maximum flavor from simple ingredients. Signature dishes like hilbeh—a pungent, whipped fenugreek condiment that's a staple of Yemenite cuisine—and ezme—a vibrant, spicy Turkish spread made from finely chopped tomatoes, peppers, and herbs—demonstrate the chef's commitment to authenticity. These aren't simplified versions created for Western palates; they're the real thing, prepared with the same care and attention to detail you'd find in the Levant itself.

The menu is designed entirely around the concept of sharing, with dishes arriving in portions meant to be passed around the table. This approach isn't just practical—it's fundamental to how this cuisine is meant to be experienced. The progression of a meal at Adraba typically begins with an array of mezze, those small plates that are the heart of Levantine dining, before moving to larger shared dishes that might include grilled meats, slow-cooked stews, or vegetable preparations that showcase seasonal produce.

Benaroche's commitment to using local, seasonal ingredients represents a thoughtful bridge between his Jerusalem heritage and his Parisian present. While the techniques and flavor profiles remain authentically Levantine, the produce comes from French suppliers, creating a unique culinary dialogue between two rich food cultures. The spices—cumin, sumac, za'atar, and countless others—are sourced and blended with the same attention to quality, ensuring that each dish delivers the aromatic complexity that defines this cuisine.

The Michelin Guide's recognition of Adraba among its exotic table recommendations validates Benaroche's approach: this is cooking that respects tradition while feeling entirely relevant to contemporary Paris. The food here tells stories—of ancient trade routes, of family recipes, of a chef's journey from one great food city to another—all while delivering the bold, satisfying flavors that make Levantine cuisine so compelling.