Aux Lyonnais

The cuisine at Aux Lyonnais represents a thoughtful evolution of traditional Lyonnais bouchon cooking, that distinctive style of hearty, flavorful dishes that has made Lyon France's gastronomic capital. Since taking over the kitchen in summer 2023, Chef Victoria Boller has brought both her Lyonnais heritage and her modern culinary perspective to this historic restaurant, creating a menu that respects tradition while embracing contemporary sensibilities.

At the heart of the menu are the iconic dishes that define bouchon cuisine. The quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua stands as the restaurant's signature—a delicate pike dumpling bathed in the classic crayfish-enriched cream sauce. Chef Boller's version maintains the dish's essential character while introducing a lightness that makes it feel less heavy than traditional preparations. The quenelle itself achieves that ideal texture—firm enough to hold its shape yet tender and almost ethereal on the palate.

The andouillette represents another cornerstone of the menu, this distinctively flavored tripe sausage prepared in the authentic Lyonnais style. It's a dish that divides diners—those who love it truly love it, and Chef Boller's preparation will satisfy even the most discerning enthusiasts. The pâté en croûte showcases the technical precision required for this elaborate preparation, with its perfectly seasoned filling encased in golden pastry. The gâteau de foie blond, a specialty featuring chicken liver, demonstrates the chef's ability to transform humble ingredients into refined dishes.

Beyond these classics, the menu explores the broader repertoire of Lyonnais gastronomy. The cervelle de canut—a fresh cheese preparation with herbs and shallots—offers a lighter start to the meal. Terrines showcase the charcuterie tradition so central to Lyon's food culture. The foie de veau (calf's liver) receives careful preparation that respects the ingredient's delicate nature. More ambitious preparations like pigeon cuit sur le coffre demonstrate the chef's technical range and willingness to push beyond bistro conventions.

Daily specials appear on the ardoise, allowing Chef Boller to respond to seasonal availability and showcase her creativity. These might include preparations of canal (duck), various fish dishes, or seasonal vegetables prepared in the Lyonnais style. The approach throughout emphasizes quality ingredients, precise technique, and flavors that are robust without being overwhelming.

Desserts maintain the same balance between tradition and modernity. The tarte aux pralines roses delivers Lyon's signature pink praline in a beautifully executed tart. The mousse au chocolat achieves that ideal texture—rich and intensely chocolate while remaining light and airy. The île flottante, that classic combination of poached meringue floating on crème anglaise, provides a nostalgic conclusion that never feels dated.

The wine list naturally emphasizes the Rhône Valley and Beaujolais, regions that have always provided the natural pairing for Lyonnais cuisine. You'll find both accessible bottles for casual dining and more serious selections for wine enthusiasts. The list demonstrates real knowledge of these regions, offering wines that complement the food's character—from light, fruity Beaujolais that cuts through rich preparations to more structured Côtes du Rhône that stand up to heartier dishes.

Chef Boller's achievement lies in making traditional Lyonnais cuisine feel relevant and appealing to contemporary diners without compromising its essential character. Her dishes are lighter than classic bouchon preparations yet retain the robust flavors and generous spirit that define this regional cuisine. It's cooking that honors tradition while refusing to be bound by it, creating an experience that satisfies both purists seeking authenticity and modern diners looking for refined execution.