Clamato

Under chef Bertrand Grébaut's direction, Clamato's menu reads like a daily love letter to the ocean. The cuisine centers entirely on seafood and seasonal vegetables, with the offerings dictated by what arrives each morning from artisanal fisheries committed to sustainable practices. This means the menu is in constant flux—what you eat today might not be available tomorrow, making each visit a unique experience.

The kitchen excels across the spectrum of seafood preparations. Raw dishes showcase the quality of the catch: marinated fish that highlight the chef's understanding of acid and seasoning, pristine oysters served simply to let their terroir shine, and ceviches that balance citrus, heat, and texture. The yellowtail ceviche and raw cuttlefish from Oléron exemplify this approach—minimal intervention, maximum flavor.

Cooked preparations demonstrate equal mastery. The signature crab fritters (accrabes) have achieved cult status for good reason, delivering crispy exteriors and sweet, delicate interiors. Whole bar from Oléron, bonito tataki, and bonito rillettes show the kitchen's range, from pristine grilling to creative charcuterie techniques applied to fish. The hake aioli with tomato salad represents the kind of simple-seeming dish that reveals its complexity with each bite.

The famous "Clamatarte"—the restaurant's playful take on dessert—often features seasonal fruits like the maple syrup tart that appears in autumn. Even the vegetarian options, like the winter salad, receive the same attention to seasonality and composition as the seafood dishes. Portions are designed for sharing, encouraging a convivial, tapas-style approach to dining where you can sample widely across the menu.

Plates range from 9€ to 35€, with most falling in the middle of that range, making it possible to construct a meal that fits various budgets. The daily-changing nature means regulars never tire of the menu, while first-timers benefit from staff recommendations about what's particularly special that day. This is cooking that respects the ingredient above all else, with technique serving to enhance rather than obscure the essential character of each fish, shellfish, and vegetable.