Colvert

The cuisine at Colvert represents modern French bistronomie at its finest—rooted in classical technique, elevated by creativity, and driven by an unwavering commitment to exceptional ingredients. Chef Baptiste Borderie, whose training in Michelin-starred kitchens informs every plate, has created a menu that honors French culinary heritage while embracing contemporary approaches to flavor and presentation.

Borderie's cooking philosophy centers on two fundamental principles: sourcing the best possible products and applying precise, masterful cooking techniques to showcase them. This approach manifests in dishes that taste distinctly of their primary ingredients, enhanced rather than masked by accompaniments. The seasonal nature of the menu ensures that you're always eating products at their peak, with the weekly-changing lunch menu and limited-edition dinner offerings reflecting what's best in the market at any given moment.

The restaurant's signature dishes demonstrate Borderie's range and skill. The roasted mallard duck (canard colvert)—a playful nod to the restaurant's name—showcases perfect mastery of cooking times, delivering meat that's tender and flavorful with beautifully rendered skin. The stuffed squid (supions farcis) reveals the kitchen's ability to transform seafood into refined, elegant preparations. Dishes like the celery mousse with horseradish demonstrate creative flavor combinations that surprise while remaining harmonious, and the potato gnocchi with Comté cheese shows how comfort food can be elevated without losing its soul.

The menu structure offers flexibility to suit different occasions and appetites. The three-course lunch menu at 36€ represents exceptional value, delivering restaurant-quality cuisine at an accessible price point. This menu changes weekly, ensuring regularity without monotony for local patrons while guaranteeing visitors a fresh, seasonal experience. The five-course "Terroir" dinner menu at 75€ takes diners on a more comprehensive journey through French regional specialties and seasonal highlights, with each course building on the last to create a cohesive narrative.

Borderie's approach to vegetables deserves special mention. The restaurant offers thoughtful vegetarian options that receive the same attention and creativity as meat and fish dishes, making Colvert an excellent choice for mixed groups with varying dietary preferences. The kitchen's treatment of vegetables—whether as main components or supporting players—demonstrates respect for produce and skill in coaxing maximum flavor through proper cooking techniques.

Desserts continue the commitment to quality and seasonality. The plum clafoutis exemplifies the kitchen's approach to sweets: classic French preparations executed with precision, using seasonal fruits at their peak. These aren't revolutionary desserts, but they don't need to be—they're satisfying conclusions to meals that have already delivered plenty of excitement.

The limited-edition approach to dinner service adds an element of discovery and exclusivity. Dishes prepared in small quantities mean that the kitchen can focus on perfection rather than volume, and it creates a sense of occasion—you might be enjoying something that won't appear on the menu again. This approach also allows Borderie to experiment and respond to exceptional ingredients that become available in limited quantities.

Throughout the menu, you'll find evidence of Borderie's Michelin-starred training: in the precision of cooking times, the thoughtfulness of flavor combinations, the elegance of plating, and the consistency of execution. Yet the food never feels overly formal or intimidating. It's cuisine that respects your intelligence as a diner while remaining fundamentally about pleasure and satisfaction. This is food that makes you want to return, to see what the kitchen will do next week, next season, next year.