Dilia

At Dilia, the food philosophy centers on the Italian principle of letting exceptional ingredients speak for themselves, elevated by precise technique and creative touches. Chef Michele Farnesi's background—including formative time with three-Michelin-starred Massimo Bottura—informs every plate, but the cooking never feels overly complex or fussy. Instead, it achieves that difficult balance of appearing simple while revealing layers of flavor and careful consideration.

Pasta forms the heart of the menu, and here Farnesi's skill truly shines. The signature beetroot gnocchi, delicate pillows enriched with bottarga (cured fish roe), exemplifies his approach—a traditional format reimagined with unexpected ingredients that complement rather than overwhelm. The spaghetti alla chitarra, served by weight in authentic Italian fashion, showcases the quality of the pasta itself alongside whatever seasonal sauce accompanies it. Artichoke tortellini and ravioli filled with puzzano cheese demonstrate the kitchen's commitment to handmade pasta and regional Italian traditions.

Beyond pasta, the menu ventures into proteins treated with equal care. Roasted pigeon appears regularly, its rich meat handled with the respect it deserves. Lamb, turbot (barbue), and cod (in the form of delicate fritters) rotate based on season and availability. The pork shoulder (échine de porc) and linguine with meagre fish show Farnesi's range, moving between hearty and delicate with equal confidence.

The menu structure offers flexibility depending on your appetite and budget. Lunch formulas (€16-21 on Thursday and Friday) provide exceptional value—a complete meal with starter, main, and dessert that showcases the kitchen's capabilities without the commitment of a longer tasting menu. Dinner service becomes more elaborate, with options for four-course (€44), six-course (€60), or full tasting experiences (€80-92) that allow the kitchen to demonstrate its full range.

Desserts deserve special mention, particularly the maritozzo—a Roman sweet bun filled with whipped cream—and an innovative brioche with pistachio cream that bridges Italian tradition and French pâtisserie technique. The panacotta, a classic Italian dessert, receives careful attention to texture and flavor balance.

Vegetarians will find thoughtful options throughout the menu, though the restaurant's strength lies in its omnivorous offerings. The kitchen's willingness to work with dietary preferences, combined with the seasonal nature of the menu, means there's usually something appealing for plant-based diners beyond token accommodation.

What makes the food at Dilia particularly compelling is how it reflects both Farnesi's Tuscan roots and his adopted Parisian home. The cooking respects Italian traditions—the importance of pasta, the emphasis on seasonal ingredients, the restraint in letting flavors shine—while incorporating French techniques and the exceptional produce available in Paris markets. This Franco-Italian dialogue creates dishes that feel both authentic and contemporary, familiar and surprising.