Divellec

At Divellec, the cuisine represents Mathieu Pacaud's deep respect for seafood and his mastery of French culinary technique. Having honed his skills at legendary establishments like L'Ambroisie and Hexagone, Pacaud brings a level of precision and refinement to seafood preparation that places Divellec among Paris's top addresses for fish and shellfish.

The philosophy here is straightforward: source the finest possible ingredients and prepare them in ways that enhance rather than mask their natural qualities. The menu changes according to what arrives from France's best fishing ports each day, ensuring that you're always experiencing seafood at its peak. This commitment to seasonality and freshness means that while certain signature dishes remain constants, the specific offerings evolve with the catch.

Pacaud's signature oysters with sabayon, watercress and caviar exemplify his approach—taking a classic ingredient and elevating it through technique and luxurious accompaniments that complement rather than overwhelm. The grilled langoustines with tarragon showcase his ability to execute seemingly simple preparations with precision, allowing the sweetness of the shellfish to shine while the herb adds aromatic complexity.

The menu offers multiple ways to experience the ocean's bounty. Raw preparations like tuna sashimi and scallop carpaccio highlight the quality of the fish, while cooked dishes demonstrate Pacaud's technical prowess. You'll find squid prepared in persillade—a classic French treatment with parsley and garlic—alongside more elaborate preparations like bouillabaisse and sole viennoise. The option to order whole fish for sharing adds a convivial element to the meal, perfect for groups who want to experience multiple preparations.

The raw bar deserves special mention, offering oysters, clams, and other shellfish that arrive daily. These are presented simply, allowing you to appreciate the pure taste of the sea with perhaps just a squeeze of lemon or a classic mignonette. For those seeking variety, the menu includes options like salmon tartare, red tuna in various preparations, and a selection of shellfish that changes with availability.

While seafood dominates the menu, Pacaud hasn't forgotten that not everyone wants fish at every meal. Vegetarian options like poivrade artichokes demonstrate the same attention to quality and seasonality that characterizes the seafood offerings. The kitchen's versatility extends to accommodating dietary preferences while maintaining the high standards that define the Divellec experience.

Desserts, created by Maison Mathieu Pacaud, provide a sweet conclusion to the meal. The chocolate soufflé stands as a signature—a classic French dessert executed with the precision and lightness that only comes from true mastery. At 25€ per person, the dessert course represents a worthy investment in completing your culinary journey.

The cooking style throughout reflects Pacaud's training in haute cuisine while remaining focused on letting ingredients speak for themselves. Sauces enhance rather than dominate, cooking times are calibrated to preserve texture and moisture, and presentations are elegant without being overly fussy. This is refined French cooking applied to seafood, where tradition and technique combine to create dishes that feel both familiar and special.