L'Avant Comptoir du Marché

The food at L'Avant Comptoir du Marché is a masterclass in charcuterie and pork cookery, filtered through Yves Camdeborde's Béarnais heritage and refined by his years of experience in Parisian kitchens. The menu features 60 to 70 mini-portions that allow diners to sample widely, with each dish representing a different technique or cut.

Camdeborde's charcuterie selection is the heart of the menu, showcasing traditional French preparations executed with exceptional skill. The terrine of the week changes regularly, reflecting seasonal ingredients and the chef's creative impulses. House-made pâtés, boudin noir (blood sausage), and boudin blanc (white sausage) demonstrate mastery of classic techniques. The pig's ears are a revelation—crispy, rich, and utterly addictive for those willing to venture beyond conventional cuts.

The caramelized pork belly (poitrine de porc caramélisée) is a signature dish that exemplifies Camdeborde's approach: taking a humble cut and elevating it through careful preparation and perfect execution. The foie gras brochette offers luxury in miniature form, while various other pork preparations showcase different parts of the animal, from nose to tail.

Beyond pork, the menu incorporates Mediterranean influences and seafood options. Cod croquettes (croquettes de morue) provide a lighter counterpoint to the rich charcuterie, while the salmon with nori and wasabi demonstrates Camdeborde's willingness to look beyond French borders for inspiration. The côte de bœuf with sabayon proves that while pork is the star, the kitchen handles beef with equal expertise.

Vegetables make occasional appearances, with dishes like green asparagus offering respite from the meat-heavy menu, though vegetarian options are sporadic rather than systematic. The bread service features cornbread served with Bordier butter, a luxurious touch that elevates even this simple element.

Desserts range from €3 to €8, with the baba covered in chantilly cream standing out as a signature sweet. The dessert selection is varied enough to provide a satisfying conclusion to the meal without overwhelming the savory focus of the menu.

Each dish is designed to pair beautifully with the natural and desulfited wines that are a cornerstone of the L'Avant Comptoir experience. The portion sizes encourage ordering multiple dishes, creating a grazing experience that's perfect for the standing counter format. Camdeborde's cooking is rooted in French tradition but never feels stuffy or overly formal—it's bistro food elevated by technique and quality ingredients, served in a format that prioritizes pleasure and conviviality above all else.