La Taverne De ZHAO (Canal Saint Martin)

La Taverne De ZHAO specializes in the distinctive cuisine of Xi'an, capital of China's Shaanxi province and eastern terminus of the ancient Silk Road. This regional focus sets the restaurant apart in Paris's Chinese dining landscape, offering flavors and techniques rarely encountered outside northwestern China.

The undisputed stars of the menu are the dumplings, prepared fresh daily using traditional methods. The golden jiaozi—pan-fried dumplings with crispy, caramelized bottoms and tender tops—arrive at the table still sizzling, their wrappers achieving that perfect textural contrast between crunch and chew. The steamed momos offer a different experience, their delicate skins encasing generous fillings of lacquered duck, seasoned pork, or five-spice tofu. Each dumpling represents hours of skilled handwork, from wrapper rolling to precise pleating.

Beyond dumplings, the menu showcases Xi'an's noodle traditions with impressive authenticity. The Biang Biang noodles—named for the sound they make when slapped against the work surface during preparation—arrive as wide, belt-like ribbons tossed with chili oil, vegetables, and your choice of protein. These hand-pulled noodles possess a satisfying chew and absorb the bold, spicy flavors beautifully. The liàngpí cold noodles provide refreshing contrast, their slippery texture and cooling properties offering relief from the characteristic heat of the region's cuisine.

The kitchen doesn't shy away from Xi'an's love of bold seasoning, particularly the numbing heat of Sichuan peppercorns and the deep, complex spice of house-made chili oil. However, some dishes may benefit from requesting extra seasoning, as the kitchen occasionally moderates flavors for Western palates. Vegetarian options receive genuine attention rather than being afterthoughts, with vegetarian dumplings and spinach-based dishes that showcase the cuisine's plant-based traditions.

Soups represent another strength, particularly the copious noodle soup featuring tender pork ribs and vermicelli in a rich, aromatic broth. Traditional MO—Chinese flatbreads—serve as excellent vehicles for soaking up sauces and add textural variety to the meal. The menu also features seaweed salads and other cold appetizers that provide refreshing counterpoints to the heartier main dishes.

Desserts maintain the authentic Chinese approach with black sesame ice cream and green tea flan, both offering subtle sweetness and distinctive Asian flavors that Western diners may find intriguing. The beverage program includes a thoughtful selection of Chinese teas that complement the bold flavors, along with house-made drinks and beers. For those who fall in love with the restaurant's signature heat, bottles of ZHAO's house-made chili oil are available for purchase in both classic and extra-hot versions.