La Traboule

Chef Francesco Fezza's cuisine at La Traboule represents a sophisticated dialogue between French bistro traditions and Korean culinary influences, executed with technical precision and creative flair. His approach is distinctly seasonal, allowing the menu to evolve throughout the year as ingredients reach their peak, ensuring that each visit offers something fresh and compelling.

The fusion concept here is thoughtfully executed rather than gimmicky. Fezza doesn't simply add Korean ingredients to French dishes or vice versa; instead, he finds genuine synergies between the two culinary traditions, creating plates that feel coherent and purposeful. A dish like beef prepared bulgogi-style demonstrates this philosophy—taking the Korean marinated and grilled meat tradition and elevating it with French technique and presentation. Similarly, his use of ingredients like coconut milk with red mullet shows an openness to Asian flavors while maintaining the refined execution expected in French gastronomy.

The pasta preparations showcase Fezza's technical skill and Italian influences (reflecting the restaurant's French-Italian designation in some sources). His gnocchi and blue crab ravioli are handmade with evident care, demonstrating the kind of pasta craftsmanship that requires both patience and precision. The tagliatelle with cuttlefish (tagliatelles de seiche) represents another highlight, combining delicate pasta with the briny sweetness of fresh cephalopod—a dish that could feel at home in a coastal Italian trattoria or a refined Parisian bistro.

Seafood features prominently in Fezza's repertoire, with preparations that highlight the quality of the raw ingredients. The cod loin (dos de cabillaud) receives careful treatment that preserves its delicate texture, while the stuffed red mullet demonstrates more elaborate technique. The restaurant's commitment to quality extends to premium ingredients like sweetbreads (ris de veau), a classic French delicacy that requires expert preparation to achieve the proper texture and flavor.

The lunch service offers exceptional value with formulas starting at 35€ (two courses) or 48€ (three courses), making Fezza's creative cuisine accessible to a broader audience. These midday menus maintain the restaurant's quality standards while acknowledging the different pace and expectations of lunch service. The dinner experience becomes more elaborate and ambitious, with tasting menus at 72€ (four courses) and 89€ (five courses) that allow the chef to showcase his full creative range and technical capabilities.

Vegetarian options appear on the menu, reflecting contemporary dining preferences and Fezza's versatility. Dishes featuring white asparagus in season or creative vegetable preparations demonstrate that the kitchen's creativity extends beyond proteins. The risotto with Nduja (a spicy Calabrian spreadable salami) offers a rich, flavorful option that bridges Italian and French influences while delivering bold, satisfying flavors.

Desserts receive equal attention, with creations like the chocolate and kalamansi moelleux (a molten chocolate cake with the citrus notes of Filipino kalamansi) and a strawberry-petit pois (pea) tart that demonstrates Fezza's willingness to explore unexpected flavor combinations. These sweet conclusions often surprise diners with their creativity while maintaining the technical excellence evident throughout the meal.

The 30-day aged beef represents the restaurant's commitment to quality ingredients and proper technique. Dry-aging beef requires expertise and patience, concentrating flavors and tenderizing the meat through controlled decomposition—a process that reflects the restaurant's dedication to doing things properly rather than taking shortcuts.

Throughout the menu, Fezza's cooking demonstrates a mastery of fundamental techniques—proper seasoning, precise cooking temperatures, thoughtful sauce work—while never losing sight of creativity and surprise. The portions are generous without being excessive, and the plating is refined without being fussy. This is food that respects both tradition and innovation, offering diners a genuine culinary experience that justifies the restaurant's growing reputation and critical recognition.