Le Châteaubriand

Le Châteaubriand's cuisine represents the pinnacle of the bistronomic movement—a philosophy that brings haute cuisine techniques and creativity to a more relaxed, accessible format. Under Chef Leonardo Righini, who trained under the restaurant's founder Iñaki Aizpitarte, the kitchen continues to push boundaries while maintaining the playful, ingredient-focused approach that made the restaurant famous.

The dining experience revolves around an 11-course tasting menu that changes regularly based on seasonal availability and the chef's creative inspiration. This format allows Righini to showcase his technical skills and imaginative flavor combinations across multiple courses, building a narrative that takes diners on a culinary journey. The menu is priced at €95 for dinner and €65 for lunch, offering exceptional value for this level of creativity and execution.

The meal typically begins with the restaurant's signature gougères—those airy, cheese-filled choux pastries that are a hallmark of French bistro cooking. From this traditional starting point, the menu ventures into more adventurous territory. The ceviche has become a recurring highlight, demonstrating the kitchen's ability to balance acidity, freshness, and bold seasoning in a dish that's both refined and vibrant.

Righini's creativity shines in unexpected preparations like tuna eye ragout—a dish that transforms an often-overlooked part of the fish into something luxurious and memorable. The sugar-free eggplant ice cream exemplifies the kitchen's playful approach to texture and flavor, challenging expectations while delivering genuine deliciousness. These aren't gimmicks but thoughtful explorations of ingredients and techniques.

The Basque influences in the cuisine reflect both Aizpitarte's heritage and the region's reputation for bold, flavorful cooking. You might encounter dishes featuring Pyrenean trout, showcasing the exceptional quality of ingredients from France's southwest. Steamed langoustine demonstrates the kitchen's restraint and confidence—allowing pristine seafood to shine with minimal intervention.

Vegetarian options and seasonal vegetables receive the same creative attention as proteins. The kitchen's commitment to organic, local, and seasonal ingredients from independent producers means that vegetables are treated as stars rather than supporting players. This approach aligns with contemporary dining values while staying true to French culinary traditions of respecting ingredients.

The menu's progression is carefully orchestrated, with each course building on the last in terms of flavor intensity and complexity. The pacing allows you to appreciate each dish individually while experiencing the meal as a cohesive whole. Portions are sized appropriately for a multi-course format—substantial enough to satisfy without overwhelming.

The meal concludes with the celebrated Tocino del Cielo, a Spanish-inspired caramel flan that has become one of the restaurant's signature dishes. This dessert exemplifies the kitchen's philosophy: taking a traditional preparation and executing it with such precision and care that it becomes transcendent. Other desserts might include fontainebleau with strawberries, showcasing the kitchen's ability to elevate simple, classic combinations.

Throughout the menu, you'll notice the kitchen's mastery of texture—crispy elements paired with creamy ones, tender proteins against crunchy vegetables. This attention to textural contrast keeps each dish interesting and engaging, preventing palate fatigue across eleven courses.

The cuisine at Le Châteaubriand isn't about molecular gastronomy or excessive technique for its own sake. Instead, it's about understanding ingredients deeply, applying classical French techniques with precision, and having the confidence to present bold flavor combinations that might seem unconventional but ultimately make perfect sense on the plate. This is cooking that respects tradition while refusing to be bound by it—exactly what the bistronomic movement set out to achieve.