Le Maquis

The cuisine at Le Maquis represents a beautiful marriage of haute cuisine technique and bistrot soul, thanks to chef André Le Letty's impressive background as former sous-chef at La Tour d'Argent. His cooking demonstrates the kind of technical mastery typically reserved for more formal establishments, yet it's presented in the accessible, comforting format of traditional French bistrot fare.

Le Letty's signature dish, canard au sang (duck in blood sauce), exemplifies his approach perfectly. This classic preparation, served in two courses, requires significant skill and timing—the duck must be cooked precisely, and the sauce, enriched with the bird's blood, demands careful attention to achieve its characteristic richness and depth. It's the kind of dish that showcases why this chef's training at one of Paris's most legendary restaurants matters, even in a casual bistrot setting.

The menu demonstrates impressive range while maintaining focus on French culinary traditions. Ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) appears as another testament to the kitchen's technical capabilities—this delicate organ meat requires expert handling to achieve the perfect texture and flavor. During hunting season, the restaurant features a dedicated game menu that might include preparations of venison, wild boar, or other seasonal offerings, each treated with the respect and skill these ingredients demand.

Thanks to the restaurant's connection to Brittany's coastal waters, seafood plays a prominent role. Expect impeccably fresh fish preparations that allow the quality of the ingredients to shine, whether in a classic sole meunière or more contemporary presentations. The lunch menu might feature a luxurious bisque de tourteau (crab bisque) or a refreshing ceviche de bonite, demonstrating the kitchen's ability to work across different styles and techniques.

The bistrot classics are equally well-executed. The saucisse purée (sausage with mashed potatoes) becomes something special in Le Letty's hands, elevated beyond simple comfort food through careful sourcing and precise cooking. A velvety velouté showcases the fundamental French technique of creating silky, flavorful soups. Even the omelette aux girolles (omelet with chanterelle mushrooms) demonstrates the kitchen's commitment to excellence in seemingly simple preparations—the eggs are cooked to perfect creaminess, the seasonal mushrooms treated with care to preserve their delicate flavor and texture.

The restaurant's desserts have earned their own following, particularly the house crumble, which has become something of a signature. The tirami-chou offers a playful twist on classic French pastry techniques. Throughout the menu, you'll find evidence of a kitchen that respects tradition while remaining open to creative touches, always prioritizing flavor and quality above novelty.

The wine program complements the cuisine thoughtfully, with a carefully selected cellar that offers both classic pairings and more adventurous options for those looking to explore. The €24 lunch menu represents exceptional value, offering multiple courses that might include options like the bisque or other seasonal specialties. The €70 evening tasting menu allows the kitchen to showcase its full range, taking diners on a journey through the chef's repertoire with multiple courses that build upon each other to create a complete gastronomic experience.