Le Saint Sébastien

Chef Christopher Edwards' cooking at Le Saint Sébastien represents contemporary French bistronomy at its most thoughtful. His approach respects classical technique while embracing modern sensibilities, particularly in his treatment of vegetables, which receive the same careful attention traditionally reserved for proteins. This isn't vegetarian cooking as an afterthought—it's a genuine commitment to plant-based preparations that stand proudly alongside seafood and meat dishes.

The menu changes regularly to follow the seasons, ensuring that ingredients arrive at their peak. You'll find carefully sourced seafood preparations like Cantabrian anchovies and line-caught whiting (merlan de ligne), where the quality of the raw material shines through precise, unfussy cooking. The kitchen demonstrates particular skill with fish, understanding how to enhance rather than mask delicate flavors. Dishes like the mackerel from Saint-Porchaire showcase this philosophy—pristine product, expert preparation, thoughtful accompaniments.

Edwards' silver medal at the World Egg Mayo Championship might seem like a quirky credential, but it speaks to his mastery of fundamentals. The best bistronomy builds on perfect execution of simple techniques, and that foundation is evident throughout the menu. Seasonal vegetables receive creative treatment in dishes like the "méli-mélo végé" (vegetable medley), while desserts such as the olive oil cake with crème anglaise and the Angélys pear with honey demonstrate the kitchen's range beyond savory preparations.

The kitchen accommodates dietary requirements thoughtfully, offering gluten-free options and adapting dishes for allergies without compromising on flavor or presentation. This flexibility, combined with daily vegetarian offerings, makes Le Saint Sébastien accessible to diverse dining parties while maintaining its culinary standards. The food is complemented by bread from Ten Belles, ensuring that even this fundamental element meets the restaurant's quality expectations. Throughout, the cooking demonstrates confidence without showiness—dishes that are refined and considered but never overwrought.