Les Canailles
A Bib Gourmand bistrot in the 9th arrondissement where two Breton chefs craft seasonal French cuisine with a bold focus on offal and traditional techniques.
Les Canailles: Bistronomic Brilliance in the Heart of Pigalle
The cuisine at Les Canailles represents contemporary French bistronomie at its finest—rooted in tradition, elevated by technique, and guided by the seasons. Chefs Tetsuya Yoshida and Sébastien Guillo have created a menu that celebrates their Breton heritage while embracing the full spectrum of French culinary tradition, with a particular emphasis on what the French call "cuisine canaille"—a playful, bold approach that showcases often-overlooked ingredients.
The restaurant's commitment to offal and lesser-known cuts sets it apart in a dining landscape where many chefs shy away from these challenging ingredients. Here, dishes like carpaccio de langue de bœuf (beef tongue carpaccio) and foie de veau (calf's liver) aren't afterthoughts but celebrated preparations that demonstrate the chefs' technical mastery and their respect for the entire animal. The terrine de gibier (game terrine) showcases their charcuterie skills, while preparations like faux-filet poêlé (pan-seared sirloin) prove they're equally adept with more conventional cuts.
The menu changes with the seasons, reflecting the chefs' commitment to working with ingredients at their peak. This seasonal approach means that each visit to Les Canailles offers something new, as the team adapts their offerings to showcase the best available produce, meats, and game. The short carte—a deliberate choice—ensures that every dish receives the attention and care it deserves, with no compromise in quality or execution.
Signature dishes have earned devoted followings among regular diners. The carpaccio de langue de bœuf appears frequently in reviews and recommendations, praised for its delicate preparation and bold flavor. The filet de canette rôti (roasted duck breast) demonstrates the chefs' ability to execute classic preparations with precision. For dessert, the soufflé au Grand Marnier stands as a testament to traditional French pastry technique—a dish that requires perfect timing and expert execution. The tarte au chocolat Valrhona showcases premium ingredients, while the baba au rhum offers a boozy, indulgent finish to the meal.
The restaurant also accommodates vegetarian diners, offering thoughtfully prepared plant-based options that receive the same level of care and creativity as the meat-focused dishes. This inclusivity ensures that mixed groups can dine together comfortably, with everyone enjoying food that reflects the restaurant's high standards.
The pricing structure makes this level of culinary excellence accessible. The lunch formula at 26€ offers remarkable value, while the 34€ three-course menu provides a complete gastronomic experience at a fraction of what you'd pay at more formal establishments. À la carte dining averages around 39€ per person (excluding drinks), positioning Les Canailles firmly in the accessible bistronomie category—serious food without the intimidating price tag.
The wine program complements the food perfectly, with a carefully curated selection that emphasizes quality and value. The list features bottles at reasonable prices, encouraging diners to explore pairings and discover new wines without anxiety about the bill. The staff's knowledge of the wine list means they can guide selections based on your menu choices and preferences, enhancing the overall dining experience.
Both chefs bring their Breton background to their cooking, evident in their meticulous approach to preparation and their respect for ingredients. Their technique is evident in every dish—from the precise cooking of proteins to the balanced seasoning and thoughtful plating. This is food that honors French culinary tradition while remaining firmly rooted in contemporary tastes and expectations.
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Les Canailles
Address
Phone
Opening Hours | |
|---|---|
| Monday | 12 to 2 PM7 to 10 PM |
| Tuesday | 12 to 2 PM7 to 10 PM |
| Wednesday | 12 to 2 PM7 to 10 PM |
| Thursday | 12 to 2 PM7 to 10 PM |
| Friday | 12 to 2 PM7 to 10 PM |
| Saturday | Closed |
| Sunday | Closed |