Maison Cluny

Chef Matthieu Nadjar's cuisine at Maison Cluny represents a thoughtful evolution of French bistrot cooking, incorporating Mediterranean influences and a modern sensibility while maintaining deep respect for traditional techniques and seasonal ingredients. His approach results in a menu that feels both comfortingly familiar and excitingly contemporary, appealing to purists and adventurous diners alike.

The foundation of the menu rests on classic French bistrot preparations, executed with precision and quality ingredients. Dishes like the chicken liver terrine and veal kidneys demonstrate Nadjar's commitment to the full spectrum of French culinary tradition, including preparations that have fallen out of favor in less confident kitchens. These offerings speak to diners who appreciate the complete range of French gastronomy, not just the most immediately accessible dishes.

Where Nadjar's personal style truly shines is in his incorporation of Mediterranean flavors and techniques. The grilled pork loin with anchovies exemplifies this approach—taking a classic French cut and enhancing it with the bold, salty punch of anchovies, a staple of Provençal and Italian cooking. The inclusion of socca, the chickpea flatbread from Nice, as an appetizer option further demonstrates this Mediterranean influence, bringing the sunny flavors of the Côte d'Azur to the Latin Quarter.

The pasta dishes on the menu deserve special attention, as they showcase both technical skill and creative vision. The squid ink pasta makes a dramatic visual statement while delivering deep, briny flavors from the sea. The pasta with baby squid (supions) offers a more delicate interpretation of seafood pasta, allowing the tender squid to shine. These dishes bridge French and Italian culinary traditions, reflecting the Mediterranean's role as a cultural crossroads.

Sweetbreads appear in multiple preparations on the menu, highlighting Nadjar's expertise with this prized ingredient. Whether prepared as golden crispy veal sweetbreads or grilled lamb sweetbreads, these dishes demonstrate the technical precision required to properly cook this delicate organ meat. The crispy preparation offers textural contrast and rich flavor, while the grilled version provides a more straightforward appreciation of the ingredient's inherent qualities.

The Iberian pork chop represents the restaurant's commitment to sourcing exceptional products. Iberian pork, prized for its marbling and flavor developed through the pigs' acorn-rich diet, elevates a simple chop into something special. This attention to sourcing extends throughout the menu, with seasonal ingredients taking center stage and the carte changing regularly to reflect what's at its peak.

Vegetarian options receive genuine attention rather than being afterthoughts. The roasted vegetables with lemon demonstrate that plant-based dishes can be just as satisfying and flavorful as their meat-based counterparts when prepared with care and quality ingredients. The inclusion of socca and other vegetable-forward appetizers ensures that vegetarian diners have multiple options to create a complete meal.

The cheese course features carefully selected aged varieties and seasonal offerings, maintaining the French tradition of ending savory courses with fromage. This selection allows diners to explore different regions and styles of French cheesemaking, guided by knowledgeable staff who can recommend pairings and explain the characteristics of each cheese.

Desserts at Maison Cluny honor bistrot classics while ensuring they're executed to high standards. The chocolate mousse delivers the rich, airy texture that makes this simple dessert a perennial favorite. The spiced poached pear offers a lighter alternative, with warming spices complementing the fruit's natural sweetness. Rice pudding (riz au lait) appears as a comforting, nostalgic option that reminds diners of home cooking elevated to restaurant quality.

Throughout the menu, Nadjar's cooking demonstrates a clear philosophy: respect ingredients, master techniques, and don't be afraid to draw inspiration from France's Mediterranean neighbors. The result is food that satisfies on multiple levels—intellectually interesting for those who appreciate culinary craft, but also simply delicious for those who just want a great meal in a beautiful setting.