Ogata

Ogata's cuisine represents a contemporary interpretation of Japanese home cooking and regional specialties, filtered through designer Shinichiro Ogata's refined aesthetic sensibility. This isn't traditional kaiseki in the strictest sense, nor is it fusion—instead, it occupies a thoughtful middle ground where respect for Japanese culinary traditions meets modern sensibilities and seasonal French ingredients.

The menu changes regularly to reflect what's in season, with dishes carefully composed to showcase ingredients at their peak. Lunch service offers a more accessible entry point, with menus starting at 50€ featuring signatures like the tamagoyaki—a seemingly simple rolled omelette that reveals layers of technique and flavor—and kamadomeshi, rice cooked in a traditional iron pot with seasonal ingredients that arrives at the table still steaming and fragrant. The assorted appetizers are presented bento-style, offering a beautiful introduction to the kitchen's range and attention to detail.

Dinner unfolds as a more elaborate progression, beginning at 145€ and building through a sequence of dishes that balance texture, temperature, and flavor. The sashimi course showcases the kitchen's sourcing, with pristine fish that speaks to careful supplier relationships. The aged Limousin beef katsu has become something of a signature—a dish that takes the familiar Japanese preparation and elevates it through the quality of the beef and precision of execution. The breading is impossibly light and crisp, the meat tender and flavorful, demonstrating how technique can transform simple concepts into memorable experiences.

Desserts maintain the same thoughtful approach, with the blanc manger featuring coconut milk offering a delicate conclusion that's satisfying without being heavy. Throughout the meal, presentation reflects Japanese principles—each dish arrives on carefully selected ceramics, with composition that balances negative space and ingredient placement in ways that feel both artful and natural.

The beverage program deserves equal attention. Beyond an excellent selection of sakés (including a sparkling variety that works beautifully as an aperitif), the cocktail bar on the top floor creates drinks infused with Japanese teas, offering unique flavor profiles that complement the cuisine. Japanese whiskies and wines by the glass round out the options, with staff knowledgeable enough to guide you toward pairings that enhance your meal.

What distinguishes Ogata's food is its consistency of vision—every dish, from the simplest appetizer to the most complex main course, reflects the same aesthetic principles and attention to detail that govern the space itself. The kitchen doesn't chase trends or attempt to shock; instead, it offers refined, seasonal cooking that honors Japanese traditions while speaking to contemporary tastes.