Former Loiseau Rive Gauche chef Omar Dhiab brings his Mediterranean-inspired gastronomic cuisine to a refined Art Deco setting near Place des Victoires, earning 14.5/20 from Gault&Millau.
Omar Dhiab's cuisine represents a personal culinary journey that weaves together Mediterranean traditions, Egyptian heritage, and contemporary French gastronomy. Drawing inspiration from his family's cooking while applying the refined techniques he mastered at Loiseau Rive Gauche, the chef has developed a distinctive style that emphasizes seasonal ingredients, bold flavor combinations, and a strong plant-forward philosophy without sacrificing depth or complexity.
The menu showcases Dhiab's mastery of seafood through signature preparations like his celebrated lobster "Ă la Dhiab," which has become a calling card of the restaurant. Sea urchin served au naturel demonstrates his confidence in allowing pristine ingredients to speak for themselves, while dishes featuring royal sea bream, monkfish, and warm oysters reveal his ability to coax maximum flavor from Mediterranean seafood. The chef's Egyptian heritage surfaces in preparations like coral lentils with cumin, which bring warmth and aromatic complexity to the menu.
Seasonal game features prominently during autumn months through a special "Chasse" menu, with beautifully roasted venison and other wild meats prepared with the same attention to detail as the seafood offerings. A standout dish of crispy sweetbreads (croq ris de veau) demonstrates Dhiab's technical prowess with offal, while vegetable-forward preparations throughout the menu reflect his commitment to plant-based ingredients as more than mere accompaniments.
Desserts continue the chef's exploration of unexpected flavor combinations, with the signature chocolate-lemon-cayenne pepper creation offering a bold finale that balances sweetness, acidity, and heat. Seasonal offerings like pistachio and grapefruit or roasted pear with sorrel showcase lighter, more delicate approaches that provide refreshing conclusions to the meal.
The chef's meticulous work on sauces and condiments elevates each dish, with carefully crafted accompaniments that enhance rather than mask the primary ingredients. This attention to detail, combined with the kitchen's commitment to sourcing quality products, results in cuisine that feels both refined and deeply satisfying. The bread service, featuring loaves from the acclaimed Lalos bakery served with Thierry Lemarchand butter, sets the tone for the meal and demonstrates the restaurant's commitment to excellence in every detail.
Opening Hours | |
|---|---|
| Monday | 12:15 to 1:30 PM7:30 to 9 PMClosed |
| Tuesday | 12:15 to 1:30 PM7:30 to 9 PM |
| Wednesday | 12:15 to 1:30 PM7:30 to 9 PM |
| Thursday | 12:15 to 1:30 PM7:30 to 9 PM |
| Friday | 12:15 to 1:30 PM7:30 to 9 PM |
| Saturday | Closed |
| Sunday | Closed |