Relais Louis XIII

The cuisine at Relais Louis XIII represents something increasingly precious in contemporary Paris: an uncompromising dedication to classical French gastronomy, executed by a chef whose credentials and experience place him among the masters of his generation. Chef Manuel Martinez, crowned Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1986 and formerly awarded two Michelin stars, brings decades of expertise to preparations that demand both technical mastery and deep respect for tradition.

The menu reads like a catalog of French culinary heritage, featuring dishes that have largely disappeared from modern Parisian tables. The canard au sang (duck in blood sauce) stands as the restaurant's signature—a preparation requiring specialized equipment (a duck press) and tableside service that transforms the dining experience into theater. This dish alone justifies a visit for serious gastronomes, as few restaurants still offer this elaborate, technique-intensive preparation. The quenelle de bar showcases Martinez's refined touch with delicate fish mousse, while the pâté en croûte demonstrates his mastery of charcuterie arts—a complex preparation involving multiple components encased in pastry.

Beyond these signatures, the menu explores the full breadth of French classical cooking: rich sauces built on traditional foundations, seasonal ingredients treated with respect and restraint, and presentations that prioritize flavor and technique over contemporary styling trends. The cooking here doesn't chase innovation or fusion; instead, it perfects recipes that have been refined over generations, executed with the precision that only a Meilleur Ouvrier de France can deliver.

Desserts maintain this classical approach, with the millefeuille serving as a perfect example—layers of impossibly thin, crisp pastry alternating with silky pastry cream, a preparation that seems simple but requires extraordinary skill to execute properly. Each element, from the house-made bread that begins the meal to the final mignardises, reflects the kitchen's commitment to doing things the proper way, regardless of the time and effort required.

The wine program complements this culinary approach with a varied cellar emphasizing French regions and vintages that pair naturally with classical preparations. This isn't cuisine for those seeking novelty or surprise; rather, it offers the deep satisfaction of experiencing traditional dishes prepared as they should be, by a chef who has devoted his career to preserving and perfecting these techniques.