Soces

The culinary philosophy at Soces revolves around showcasing exceptional seafood with respect for both tradition and innovation. Under chef Marius de Ponfilly, who honed his skills at the renowned Clamato, the kitchen demonstrates a deep understanding of how to handle fish and shellfish, allowing quality ingredients to shine while applying thoughtful, often creative techniques.

The restaurant's approach to fruits de mer is both classic and comprehensive. Oysters from Saint-Vaast, Isigny, and Oléron form the foundation of the offerings, presented in plateaux that range from simple to elaborate (8-26 euros). These are complemented by other shellfish selections, including tellines du Guilvinec, showcasing the kitchen's commitment to sourcing from France's finest coastal regions.

Beyond raw preparations, the menu demonstrates considerable range and creativity. The BBQ seiche (grilled cuttlefish) exemplifies the kitchen's ability to apply bold techniques to delicate seafood, while the pappardelles de seiche showcases Italian-inspired pasta-making with a seafood twist. The merlan de ligne pané (breaded line-caught whiting) represents a more traditional bistro approach, executed with precision. Truite des Pyrénées (Pyrenean trout) brings freshwater fish into the conversation, highlighting the kitchen's broader perspective on aquatic cuisine.

For those seeking alternatives to seafood, the menu thoughtfully includes options like carré d'agneau (rack of lamb) and picanha de boeuf, ensuring groups with varied preferences can dine together comfortably. The vegetarian offerings deserve special mention—rather than afterthoughts, dishes like rillettes de thon rouge and potimarron rôti (roasted pumpkin) receive the same attention to flavor and presentation as their seafood counterparts.

The cuisine embraces seasonality with genuine commitment, changing the carte daily based on what's available and at its peak. This approach, combined with the restaurant's focus on local, seasonal, and often organic ingredients, aligns perfectly with the natural wine program. Desserts like the tartelette fraise et rhubarbe (strawberry and rhubarb tart) continue the seasonal theme, providing a refined conclusion to the meal.

The kitchen's style can be characterized as contemporary French bistro cooking with a strong seafood focus—technique-driven but not fussy, creative but not gimmicky, and always in service of highlighting exceptional ingredients. The emphasis on sharing plates encourages a convivial dining style that matches the restaurant's overall atmosphere.