Paris 17 · Modern cuisine · Upscale
Young Chef of the Year 2023 Mallory Gabsi crafts modern French cuisine with audacious flavor pairings in an intimate 28-seat dining room in the 17th arrondissement.
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Modern French gastronomy where audacious flavor pairings and varied textures create poetic, boundary-pushing cuisine.
Mallory Gabsi's cuisine represents a bold evolution of French gastronomy—rooted in classical technique but fearlessly innovative in its approach to flavors, textures, and presentations. The chef, who gained national recognition as a Top Chef 2020 semi-finalist and was named Young Chef of the Year in 2023, has developed a distinctive culinary voice that balances technical mastery with creative audacity.
The restaurant offers three menu options, each showcasing Gabsi's signature style. The lunch menu (€75, three sequences) provides an accessible introduction to his cuisine, available Monday through Friday from 12:30 PM to 1:15 PM. For dinner, guests can choose between Les Sens (€150, four sequences) and Turquoise (€195, seven sequences), with the latter offering the most comprehensive exploration of the chef's creative universe. All menus change every six to seven weeks, ensuring that the cuisine remains dynamic and seasonal while maintaining the chef's distinctive approach.
What defines Gabsi's cooking is his masterful manipulation of textures and his willingness to create unexpected flavor combinations that challenge and delight in equal measure. Signature dishes demonstrate this philosophy brilliantly: anguille au vert laquée à la bière (eel lacquered with beer) showcases his ability to work with challenging ingredients and unconventional pairings, while a dessert combining citrus and algae reveals his fearless approach to sweet preparations. His work with premium ingredients—lobster, eel, venison, red mullet—demonstrates classical French technique, but the treatment is distinctly contemporary.
The chef's use of ingredients like saffron adds aromatic complexity and visual beauty to his dishes, while his incorporation of elements like seaweed and beer in unexpected contexts shows a chef unafraid to look beyond traditional French pantry staples. Each dish is a study in contrasts—delicate yet bold, familiar yet surprising, technically precise yet emotionally resonant. The presentation is artistic without being overly conceptual; these are dishes meant to be eaten and enjoyed, not just admired.
The open kitchen allows you to witness the precision and choreography behind each plate, adding an educational and theatrical dimension to the meal. Wine pairings are available to complement the tasting menus, with selections from quality vignerons chosen to enhance the complex flavors of each dish. The restaurant also offers vegetarian options, demonstrating the chef's versatility and commitment to accommodating different dietary preferences without compromising his creative vision.
This is cuisine that demands attention and rewards curiosity—food that tells a story, evokes emotion, and pushes the boundaries of what French gastronomy can be while respecting the traditions that underpin it.
An intimate, sophisticated atmosphere where the energy of an open kitchen meets the refined elegance of fine dining.
Mallory Gabsi cultivates an atmosphere that balances gastronomic sophistication with approachable warmth. The intimate 28-seat capacity creates an exclusive yet welcoming environment where you feel part of a select community of food enthusiasts rather than just another diner. The open kitchen serves as the restaurant's beating heart, offering a captivating spectacle as the chef and his team orchestrate each dish with precision and artistry.
The ambiance strikes a delicate balance—it's refined without being stuffy, elegant without being intimidating. There's a palpable sense of excitement in the air, the kind that comes from knowing you're experiencing something special and contemporary. The restaurant exudes a quiet confidence, reflecting the chef's own assured approach to his craft. Service is attentive and knowledgeable, with staff who understand the intricacies of each dish and can guide you through the tasting experience with genuine enthusiasm.
The pacing of the meal allows for conversation and contemplation, making it ideal for special occasions, romantic dinners, or simply for those who appreciate the art of fine dining. The energy is focused yet relaxed—you're here to savor, to discover, and to be surprised. The intimate scale means the chef can maintain consistent quality across every table, and you can feel this attention to detail in every aspect of the experience. This is a place where gastronomy is taken seriously, but where the overall experience remains joyful and engaging rather than overly formal.
Art Deco-inspired elegance meets contemporary design, with velvet seating and custom ceramics creating a luxurious yet intimate setting.
The décor at Mallory Gabsi draws inspiration from the golden age of luxury ocean liners, evoking the refined elegance of Art Deco design while maintaining a distinctly contemporary sensibility. The space is intimate and carefully curated, with every design element contributing to an atmosphere of understated luxury.
Velvet seating in rich tones provides both comfort and visual warmth, while custom-made ceramics add artisanal touches throughout the dining room. The color palette centers around the chef's signature turquoise—his favorite color and the namesake of his seven-course tasting menu—which appears as subtle accents that tie the space together without overwhelming it. The overall aesthetic is sophisticated and refined, with clean lines and thoughtful details that create a sense of occasion without feeling overly formal.
The open kitchen is integrated into the dining space in a way that feels natural and engaging rather than intrusive. You can watch the culinary team at work, adding a dynamic visual element to the meal while maintaining the intimate, cocoon-like atmosphere of the dining room. Lighting is carefully calibrated to create warmth and intimacy, enhancing the sense that you're in a special, exclusive space. The décor speaks to quality and craftsmanship—from the tableware to the furnishings—reflecting the same attention to detail that characterizes the cuisine. It's a space that feels both timeless and contemporary, elegant yet comfortable, perfectly suited to the innovative gastronomy being served.
A young chef's bold vision realized in an intimate 28-seat setting where an open kitchen reveals the artistry behind each innovative plate.
What makes Mallory Gabsi truly distinctive is the convergence of several remarkable elements that rarely come together in one place. First, there's the chef himself—a Top Chef 2020 semi-finalist who earned the title of Young Chef of the Year in 2023, bringing both media recognition and serious culinary credentials to this intimate address. His youth and energy translate into cuisine that feels genuinely contemporary and forward-thinking rather than derivative or overly reverential to tradition.
The restaurant's intimate 28-seat capacity is a deliberate choice that allows the chef to maintain absolute control over quality and consistency. This isn't a chef spreading himself thin across a large dining room or multiple establishments; this is focused, personal gastronomy where every plate receives the same level of attention and care. The small scale also creates an exclusive atmosphere—you're part of a select group experiencing something special, not lost in a crowd.
The open kitchen concept adds a unique theatrical dimension to the dining experience. You can watch the precision, timing, and artistry that goes into each dish, gaining appreciation for the technical mastery behind the creative presentations. This transparency is both educational and engaging, demystifying haute cuisine while simultaneously showcasing its complexity.
Perhaps most distinctive is Gabsi's culinary philosophy itself—what he calls 'poetic cuisine.' This isn't just marketing language; it's evident in dishes that balance audacious flavor pairings with varied textures and visual artistry. His willingness to use unconventional ingredients and combinations (eel with beer, citrus with algae) sets him apart from more conservative fine dining establishments, while his technical execution ensures these experiments succeed rather than fall flat.
The restaurant's rapid ascent—earning a 15.5/20 Gault&Millau rating and 'Table Remarquable' distinction within its first years of operation—speaks to the quality and originality of the experience. The menu rotation every six to seven weeks ensures that even regular guests encounter new creations, reflecting a chef who's constantly evolving and pushing his own boundaries. The Art Deco-inspired décor, centered around the chef's signature turquoise color, creates a cohesive aesthetic experience that complements the cuisine.
Finally, the restaurant's commitment to offering vegetarian options within a gastronomic tasting menu format demonstrates a progressive approach that respects diverse dietary preferences without compromising culinary ambition. This is modern French gastronomy at its most exciting—respectful of tradition but unafraid to challenge conventions, technically brilliant but emotionally engaging, exclusive yet welcoming.
Book well in advance for this 28-seat gem, and consider the lunch menu for exceptional value on Gabsi's innovative cuisine.
Given the restaurant's intimate 28-seat capacity and growing reputation, reservations are absolutely essential and should be made as far in advance as possible. You can book online through the restaurant's website or by calling 09 52 96 09 99 (phone lines are open Monday to Friday, 9:30 AM to noon). The restaurant operates Tuesday through Saturday only, with lunch service from 12:15 PM to 1:15 PM and dinner from 7:30 PM to 9:15 PM.
For those seeking exceptional value, we highly recommend the lunch menu at €75 for three sequences—it offers a genuine taste of Gabsi's creative cuisine at a more accessible price point than the evening tasting menus. This makes it an excellent option for a first visit or for those who want to experience the chef's work without committing to the longer, more expensive evening formats.
If you're opting for dinner, consider the seven-sequence Turquoise menu (€195) for the most comprehensive exploration of the chef's culinary universe, especially if this is a special occasion. The four-sequence Les Sens menu (€150) offers a more concise but still substantial experience. Wine pairings are available and highly recommended—the selections are thoughtfully curated to complement the complex flavors of each dish.
The restaurant is located near the Argentine metro station (Line 1), making it easily accessible by public transportation. The neighborhood is residential and quiet, so don't expect bustling street life—the restaurant itself is the destination. Note that the restaurant is closed for the holidays from December 24, 2025, through January 2, 2026, so plan accordingly if you're visiting during that period.
The open kitchen means you'll have a front-row seat to the culinary action, so if you're particularly interested in the technical aspects of the cooking, mention this when booking—they may be able to seat you where you'll have the best view. The intimate setting means the pacing of the meal is carefully controlled; plan for a leisurely experience, especially for the longer tasting menus.
Please note that dogs are not accepted at the restaurant, so leave your furry friends at home. The restaurant also offers gift boxes (coffrets cadeaux) if you're looking for a special present for a food lover—these can be purchased through their website and make for memorable gifts.
Anguille au vert laquée à la bière, Lobster preparation, Venison dish, Red mullet, Citrus-algae dessert, Saffron-infused creation
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