Young Chef of the Year 2023 Mallory Gabsi crafts modern French cuisine with audacious flavor pairings in an intimate 28-seat dining room in the 17th arrondissement.
Mallory Gabsi's cuisine represents a bold evolution of French gastronomy—rooted in classical technique but fearlessly innovative in its approach to flavors, textures, and presentations. The chef, who gained national recognition as a Top Chef 2020 semi-finalist and was named Young Chef of the Year in 2023, has developed a distinctive culinary voice that balances technical mastery with creative audacity.
The restaurant offers three menu options, each showcasing Gabsi's signature style. The lunch menu (€75, three sequences) provides an accessible introduction to his cuisine, available Monday through Friday from 12:30 PM to 1:15 PM. For dinner, guests can choose between Les Sens (€150, four sequences) and Turquoise (€195, seven sequences), with the latter offering the most comprehensive exploration of the chef's creative universe. All menus change every six to seven weeks, ensuring that the cuisine remains dynamic and seasonal while maintaining the chef's distinctive approach.
What defines Gabsi's cooking is his masterful manipulation of textures and his willingness to create unexpected flavor combinations that challenge and delight in equal measure. Signature dishes demonstrate this philosophy brilliantly: anguille au vert laquée à la bière (eel lacquered with beer) showcases his ability to work with challenging ingredients and unconventional pairings, while a dessert combining citrus and algae reveals his fearless approach to sweet preparations. His work with premium ingredients—lobster, eel, venison, red mullet—demonstrates classical French technique, but the treatment is distinctly contemporary.
The chef's use of ingredients like saffron adds aromatic complexity and visual beauty to his dishes, while his incorporation of elements like seaweed and beer in unexpected contexts shows a chef unafraid to look beyond traditional French pantry staples. Each dish is a study in contrasts—delicate yet bold, familiar yet surprising, technically precise yet emotionally resonant. The presentation is artistic without being overly conceptual; these are dishes meant to be eaten and enjoyed, not just admired.
The open kitchen allows you to witness the precision and choreography behind each plate, adding an educational and theatrical dimension to the meal. Wine pairings are available to complement the tasting menus, with selections from quality vignerons chosen to enhance the complex flavors of each dish. The restaurant also offers vegetarian options, demonstrating the chef's versatility and commitment to accommodating different dietary preferences without compromising his creative vision.
This is cuisine that demands attention and rewards curiosity—food that tells a story, evokes emotion, and pushes the boundaries of what French gastronomy can be while respecting the traditions that underpin it.
Opening Hours | |
|---|---|
| Monday | 12:30 to 1:15 PM7:30 to 9:15 PM |
| Tuesday | 12:30 to 1:15 PM7:30 to 9:15 PM |
| Wednesday | 12:30 to 1:15 PM7:30 to 9:15 PM |
| Thursday | 12:30 to 1:15 PM7:30 to 9:15 PM |
| Friday | 12:30 to 1:15 PM7:30 to 9:15 PM |
| Saturday | Closed |
| Sunday | Closed |