9 Restaurants and Bars Worth the Trip to the 19th Arrondissement
Most visitors come to the 19th for one thing: a picnic on the slopes of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Then they ride back to the center for dinner and miss some of the best-value restaurants in the 19th arrondissement. With few famous names up here, the good tables are easy to walk past.
Our list is short on purpose: 9 places that passed our cross-check of Le Fooding, Michelin and Time Out, no paid placements. Belleville straddles the border, so pair this page with the 20th arrondissement, or follow the canal down to the 10th. Planning a night of natural wine? Start with our wine bars.
A charming neighborhood bistrot in Belleville serving seasonal French cuisine with natural wines in a bright, convivial atmosphere that feels like a village escape.
Fooding Award
Michelin
TimeoutFooding
A contemporary seafood bistro in Paris's 19th arrondissement where Saint-Vaast oysters meet natural wines in a chic, convivial setting.
Fooding AwardMichelinTimeoutFooding
A joyful, eco-conscious guinguette serving Mediterranean tapas in one of Paris's most beautiful parks, where festive vibes meet inclusive community spirit.
A luminous cocktail bar in Belleville where creative mixology meets accessible pricing, crowned Best Author Bar by Le Fooding Guide 2018.
A dual-location Japanese epicerie fine bringing authentic sake, miso, and artisanal Japanese ingredients to Paris with expert curation and online convenience.
A vibrant cave à manger where chef Hélène Barré's creative tapas meet an exceptional selection of 250 natural wine references in the heart of Boulevard de la Villette.
An artisanal pâtisserie near Buttes-Chaumont where traditional French techniques embrace multicultural influences, creating unique pastries with locally sourced ingredients.
A pioneering specialty coffee roastery in Belleville where artisanal torréfaction meets passionate barista craftsmanship, offering 7 to 10 carefully selected green coffee references roasted on-site.
The best restaurants in the 19th arrondissement, and what else to try
The 19th is big, hilly and residential, so plan by cluster rather than by street. Belleville and the Buttes-Chaumont are a short walk apart, and most of this list sits between the two. Open the map above to see which places sit near your hotel or your picnic spot, and check the opening days on each place page: several kitchens here close early in the week.
Two bistros that won the Fooding Award
Le Cadoret is the neighborhood bistro everyone wishes they had: a bright room, a terrace, a short menu that changes with the market. Think skate wing, lacquered pork belly and toffee madeleines, with natural wines by the glass. The two-course lunch formulas are among the fairest deals in the city; it's closed on Sunday and Monday. Soces, on rue de la Villette, cooks the sea with a chef who came from Clamato: Saint-Vaast oysters, barbecued cuttlefish, cuttlefish pappardelle. It opens Wednesday to Sunday, with weekend lunch and service until late. See more Fooding Award winners and our favorite oysters in Paris.
Natural wine, cocktails and a guinguette in the park
Le Canon d'Achille, on the boulevard de la Villette, is a cave à manger with around 250 natural wine references and inventive small plates from chef Hélène Barré; bookings go through Instagram. Combat, on rue de Belleville, won Le Fooding's best author bar prize in 2018 and pours bright, affordable cocktails, with a sloping terrace for people-watching. Inside the Buttes-Chaumont, Rosa Bonheur runs a festive guinguette with Mediterranean tapas and no reservations, Wednesday to Sunday. Browse our small plates, bars with a terrace and lively bars for more nights like these.
Coffee, pastries and a Japanese pantry
Belleville Brûlerie roasts specialty beans on-site on a Dutch machine; come mid-week and you may catch a roast. Near the park, GINKO pâtisserie gives French classics a Japanese accent, from the Paris-Tokyo choux to yuzu chocolate; go in the morning for croissants at their flakiest. Épicerie Umai stocks sake and miso to take home. More in our pastry shops and coffee shops guides.