20 Belleville Restaurants and Bars Parisians Actually Go To
Visitors come to the 20th for Père Lachaise and the Belleville street art, then eat wherever the metro drops them. Big mistake. The restaurants in Belleville are where Parisians go to eat well without dressing up: natural wine bistros, Basque tapas, a pizza that won a world title.
The catch? The best tables are tiny, booked out and often closed on weekends. These 20 places were cross-checked across Le Fooding, Michelin and Time Out, with opening hours on every page. Belleville spills over into the 19th arrondissement, Oberkampf in the 11th is a walk downhill, and our pizza guide has a serious contender up here.
A beloved Belleville institution since 1987, where Argentine chef Raquel Carena crafts bold French terroir cuisine paired with an exceptional natural wine selection.
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The 2020 world champion Neapolitan pizzeria where Giuseppe Cutraro crafts award-winning pies with cloud-like crusts on a charming Parisian square.
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Chef Michele Farnesi's intimate Italian haven serves inventive pasta and seasonal dishes in a rustic countryside setting, earning a 13.5/20 Gault&Millau rating.
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A vibrant neighborhood bistrot in Belleville serving seasonal, organic cuisine with Catalan influences and an exceptional natural wine selection.
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A lively Belleville hotspot serving inventive tapas-style plates and natural wines in an industrial-chic setting that draws Paris's most discerning food lovers.
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A warm Basque tapas bar in Gambetta serving sharing plates inspired by Navarre, paired with carefully curated Spanish wines.
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A neighborhood bistrot in Belleville where daily market finds meet marine inspiration, paired with natural wines in a convivial setting.
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A legendary 1877 cultural venue blending brasserie dining, jazz brunches, and rooftop views in the heart of Ménilmontant's artistic scene.
A spirited bistro-tavern in the 20th arrondissement where French sharing plates meet late-night conviviality and theatrical entertainment.
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A neighborhood crêperie on the slopes of Belleville serving authentic buckwheat galettes and sweet crêpes with organic ingredients, paired with a curated selection of natural ciders and vintage calvados.
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A secretive seafood haven tucked away in the 20th arrondissement, where responsible fishing meets Japanese-inspired cuisine in an intimate former printing house.
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A welcoming Algerian restaurant in the Maraîchers neighborhood, serving traditional couscous, tajines, and grilled specialties from its signature meat bar, all 100% halal.
A convivial Belleville spot where traditional French cuisine meets exceptional cheese-focused specialties in a relaxed, neighborhood atmosphere.
A contemporary bistrot in the 20th arrondissement where vegetables take center stage alongside exceptional meats and fish, crafted by Chef Geoffrey Belin in a warm, luminous setting.
A true Italian pizzeria specializing in long-fermented semolina dough pizzas, crafted with imported ingredients and available exclusively for takeout.
A rare gem serving traditional Comorian homemade dishes in a warm, family-friendly atmosphere at remarkably accessible prices.
A vibrant Vietnamese canteen near Père Lachaise where a southern Vietnam-trained chef serves authentic sharing plates in a Ho Chi Minh-inspired setting.
A traditional Basque bakery bringing the flavors of southwestern France to Paris, renowned for its signature gâteau basque with caramelized crust.
A charming bistrot in the 20th arrondissement serving comforting French classics with an unbeatable lunch formula and a welcoming terrace.
A traditional Parisian street market in the 20th arrondissement, offering fresh produce and local goods twice weekly in a vibrant neighborhood setting.
Where to eat in Belleville and the rest of the 20th
The 20th climbs from Père Lachaise up to Belleville and the Pyrénées, then rolls east toward Gambetta and the Maraîchers. Budgets are evenly spread, from a cheap galette to a sushi dinner, so pick your price in the filters above, then open the map: distances are short, but the hills are real.
Natural wine bistros, the Belleville way
Le Baratin has been here since 1987. Argentine chef Raquel Carena cooks French terroir with no fear of offal (veal brain with lemon butter, crispy beef cheek) next to a pioneering natural wine list. It's closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday, and the weekday lunch menu is the bargain. Paloma serves organic bistro food with a Catalan accent by day, tapas by night, and has one of the best terraces in the area. Le Jourdain, on rue des Couronnes, leans toward seafood and only opens on weekdays. At Le Grand Bain, you sit around a U-shaped bar for panisse fries and lamb liver tonnato: book the first service or walk in for the second. More in our Le Fooding picks and Fooding wine bars.
Pizza, pasta and Basque tapas
Peppe Pizzeria, run by 2020 world champion Giuseppe Cutraro on Place Saint-Blaise, needs a booking. Dilia is a 20-seat Italian table where Tuscan chef Michele Farnesi serves beetroot gnocchi with bottarga, backed by a cellar of about 750 wines; the Thursday and Friday lunches are easier to get. In Gambetta, Galerna cooks the tapas of Navarre, from huevos rotos with txistorra to confit pork shoulder, with independent Spanish wines. See our best pasta and tapas.
Late nights, cheap eats and a secret courtyard
On rue du Transvaal, ROND pairs organic buckwheat galettes with natural ciders and vintage calvados, all for small change. Numidia grills Algerian brochettes and serves couscous every day until 1 am. Maison One More serves sharing plates until midnight with a side of café-théâtre, and La Bellevilloise, founded as a workers' cooperative in 1877, hosts Sunday jazz brunches and a rooftop bar with views over Paris. For something quieter, Caché serves sushi and sashimi from responsibly fished seafood, on a menu that changes daily, in a former printing house on the cobbled Villa Riberolle, a true hidden gem near Père Lachaise. Browse the best galettes, couscous and late-night restaurants for more.